Hawaiian Island Vibes on All Points of Sail

Pacific Offshore Challenge 17-3: Sailing to Lanai, Maui and Molokai aboard Gemini with Lisa, Anton, James and Leandroe, April 8-15, 2017.

Sunglasses... check. Sunscreen... check. Provisions... check! The crew of Gemini made sure to stock up at Marukai and get plenty of fresh fruit, vegetables, bread and other delights. Lisa and Anton made it clear that we would not be eating canned food or pasta from a jar on this trip. So with everything else in order, Gemini and crew departed Kewalo for the neighbor islands, all smiles after looking at the weather forecast for the week.

Before setting off for the neighbor islands, the crew of Gemini decided to first make an anchoring stop off Waikiki. With the brilliant blue waters today, the idea of a quick swim call is just irresistible. It's also an opportunity to test out the new Bruce anchor and get the new anchor rode wet for the first time. New gear on this trip: new Bruce (claw) anchor and rode  (200 ft of rope + 50 ft of chain) and new roll up inflatable dinghy. We're bringing the outboard from Iorana so we don't have to row in Lahaina (yeah right!). 

For navigation, of course there's the man-made constellation of stars that we call GPS. But on Gemini we never rely solely on technology that we can't fix ourselves. So as long as we can see the land we look at the paper charts and take visual fixes with a hand bearing compass. Anton is able to take three lines of position: on Diamond Head, Koko Head and Makapuu and pin-points our 3 point fix with perfect accuracy.

As the sun sets over Oahu, the full sails are up and the bow of Gemini is pointed 115 degrees magnetic to Palaoa pt on the south coast of Lanai, about 60 NM away. The gentle Trade Winds are mostly out of the north so we are able to cruise along on nice port tack beam reach into the night. The seas are smooth, not a drop of spray comes over Gemini as she sails toward the rising full moon. Anton sees a humpback whale breach in the moonlit seas...   

After about 12 hours of smooth sailing through the night, the sleepy crew are all fully awaken to the sight of the island of Lanai, backlit by the morning twilight. There aren't many lights on Lanai so the island is a surreal and welcomed sight. A big pod of curious spinner dolphins come to greet the boat and show us the way to Manele Bay, which has a slip for us to park for the day. The crew of Gemini finishes a relaxing day of lounging on the beach with the best meal ever prepared aboard.

The sail from Manele Bay to Lahaina is short but scenic. On this leg of the voyage you can see the most of the Hawaiian islands: Lanai, Maui, Molokai and Kaho'olawe. We also see a few whales but its near the end of the season so not as many. The winds get weird here too, with the Trade Winds affected by Maui, it's very light from the south west, right on our tail so we're able to run wing-on wing in light air most of the way.

The one guest slip in Lahaina is taken today and the LYC mooring buoys are still down for maintenance. So today is the day to test out our new ground tackle. However when we approach the anchorage area, the winds are still blowing onshore from the south west. We feel a little better putting two anchors down, forked mooring method. We drop the claw, put out some scope and then use the dinghy to kedge out the Danforth. With two anchors set in the mud with 7:1 scope we feel pretty confident about going ashore.

There's a slight problem with the dinghy's motor. The carburetor must have flooded when it was transported, it won't start! This sucks, it's a long row into the harbor. But we have no choice, its a good workout. Once in the harbor, we meet up wth our other two crew, James and Leandroe who had so much fun last month they wanted to fly here and meet us to join again to do their ASA 106 course on the return from Maui. While Lisa and Anton are exploring Lahaina, the rest of the crew troubleshoot and get the dinghy motor fixed. 

That's cruising, boat projects in exotic ports. But we don't leave Lahaina without first having Big Swells and the best fish tacos in this part of the Pacific at Down the Hatch. With the motor purring, two dinghy shuttle trips get the crew all back aboard for a magical night at anchor, enjoying the best view of Lahaina. Its not too rocky at anchor and a plunge in the water in the morning to wake up gets us excited to weigh anchor and set sail for Molokai.  

Leaving Lahaina by mid morning, sailing from Maui to Molokai is the exciting part. Lisa and Anton didn't believe me that it could get windy until we pass through the Pailolo Channel. Still have our full main up though and cruising at full boat speed. At this rate, we do the 25 NM leg to Kaunakakai in time to arrive by early afternoon. We're lucky the temp dock is available so we side tie there and are able to step off onto the island of Molokai. Burgers, beers and the live entertainment at Paddler's Inn awaits. 

Lisa and Anton haven't been to Molokai so they opt to take the day to explore the island on their own. Greg, James and Leandroe find the best beach in Molokai for chilling out- One Alii Park, have a beach barbecue and make a valiant attempt at fishing from the beach. Good thing the local market also has steak, shrimp and pineapple and the beach is loaded with coconuts.  

After another night of hanging out with the locals at Paddler's Inn, we discover a not-so-secret local favorite for dessert/ next morning's breakfast: Kanemitsu Bakery's Hot bread! This place is down a hidden alley and is only open at night, but there's a line and it's worth the wait. Back at the boat, the crew regroups and plans the next leg of the voyage: a return back to Oahu and more sights along the way.

Sailing straight back to Oahu is quickest, but the crew plans to sail back via the north shore of Molokai. The winds are forecasted to be light so going back up the Pailolo Channel is possible- in theory. However, even with light winds, the funneling effect and the current makes for a long and slow passage just approaching the channel. It's really best to go this route from Maui. The crew decides that down wind is nicer and sets their sights on the north shore of Lanai instead. 

In the Kalohi Channel between Molokai and Lanai, we see a few whales- some breaching in the distance. But the closest encounter with sea life happens when the fishing gear buzzes to life. What is it?? It's fighting pretty good. The crew is hoping for a nice Ahi, mahi-mahi or even an Aku would be tasty... what, a big barracuda!? wow, can you eat those? I dunno but it eats Rapalla lures- and teak rails too! Yes, it took a small chunk. After quickly consulting Google, it's catch and release. 

That's perfectly ok though, Lisa and Anton had saved up some galley provisions and fired up all three burners on the stove to make some warm evening treats. Very impressive galley skills- heeled over in the Kaiwi channel. The northeast swell builds and Gemini sail-surfs with just the jib. The lights of Honolulu slowly get brighter and guide the crew of Gemini home from another magical and memorable trip around the islands. 

Photo Gallery of s/v Gemini cruise to Lanai, Maui and Molokai with Lisa, Anton, James and Leandroe, April 8-15, 2017